Melton's BBQ, Rocky Mount, NC
went out of business in the Year 1999, after a series of floods from
hurricanes and other storms from 1996 through 1998 so severely
damaged their original location that they were forced to move to a
strip shopping mall in Rocky Mount and their loyal following didn't
follow them to their new location.
Melton's BBQ, Rocky Mount, NC
Melton's has three-and-one-half things going for it: 1) a
spectacular view of the Tar River from most of its large,
spacious, airy dining room, 2) Brunswick stew which is
equal to Bullock's in Durham, though it is a bit sweeter
than
Bullock's , 3) sweet tea with a unique
taste because it's made from well-water drawn from a
natural spring right on sight (which moonshiners took
advantage of before Bob Melton opened his barbeque place up
in 1924 and scooted them off) and 1/2) fine-to-medium
chopped BBQ which is consistently better than average, not
spectacularly great, but definitely better than most.
Being a river person, a water person, I will have to admit
a shade of partiality of being able (especially if you get
there before 5:30 or 6 weeknights or early Saturday
afternoon, before they're taken) to sit at a table
literally within a stone's throw of a smooth, calming, but
current-kicking-flow river so close to the large perimeter
windows that one wants to reach out and fly cast from the
table and dine on pork and superb hushpuppies and scarf
down helping after helping of Brunswick stew so
well-balanced in flavor and textures and pleasant
after-tastes that you honestly don't know how much of it
you've eaten until you feel almost blindsided by the
feeling of suddenly being almost too full, it's
that good.
The BBQ itself is less whole-hog and more pork shoulders
than a lot of Eastern-NC-Style, a lot less fat than you'll
often find, which is a good thing, not a bad thing. There's
enough fat for flavor, NC-BBQ is not for the perpetually
cholesterol-obsessed in any case, but if there's such a
thing as "healthy" barbeque, Melton's comes as close to
cooking such as anyone. The texture is consistently
fine-to-medium chop, enough larger pieces for chew-count
enjoyment, but mostly smaller chopped pieces so you won't
wear your jaws out masticating all night long. There is a
certain blandness to it, though, a certain anonymity of
taste that keeps me from giving it a four-pig rating. BBQ,
especially NC-Style-BBQ, should have its own signature
flavor, recognizable as such from being from such-and-such
a place, whether that flavor is to your personal liking, or
not. But if you can imagine a large fast-food chain trying
to clone a recipe for Eastern-NC-Style BBQ that could be
mass-marketed across the country, consistently tasty and
good and pleasant all around but lacking a certain
character which might offend some by being too pleasing
others, a
McDonald's Eastern-NC-Style BBQ if you will, Melton's would
be it. That said, the entire experience of Melton's, the
Brunswick stew, the excellent BBQ, the river view, etc.,
should put it on your list of must-places to try if you're
doing an NC-BBQ circuit.
Speaking of fast food, coincidence or not, Melton's is just
down the road from the world headquarters of Hardee's Inc.,
and at lunch you can tell who is sick and tired of eating
endless perpetual taste tests of certain fast food product
samples that are in developmental stages when litters of
corporate pups in suits and ties spill out from late-model
vehicles at Melton's parking lot. Their address is: 631 E.
Ridge Street; from N. Church Street/Highway 301 Business,
either coming from downtown or from the US 64 Bypass, look
for the Tops gas station near the river and bypass, then
turn left if coming from downtown or right if from 64 onto
a street who's name I can't remember, go about half a mile, then look for Ridge St., make a right, follow it to
Melton's. If it's your first time going there, you might
want to give them a call at 919-446-8513.
P.S.: if you're canoeing that stretch of the Tar River above them, they don't mind if you leave one of your vehicles in their parking lot to do a shuttle with later.
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